DuckMixer!!!

 It's a mixer! It can sidechain the main channels with ..... I just had the idea to normal the first mixer input to the duck-signal jack... okay that's done and I'm continuing this post so I can create a QR code linking TO this post so I can add it to the PCB before ordering it.

Anyway, this is what this will do. It's a 4 channel (stereo) or 8 channel (mono, but pairs of channels are linked) mixer. It accepts one or two signals to duck the incoming audio by envelope-following the duck-signal (adjustable decay) which illuminates an LED, which is paired with an LDR (light-dependent resistor) which shunts the incoming audio to ground. The input resistor is 100K, and the LDRs can get down to a hundred some ohms when fully illuminated (in my experience?) so it'll attenuate the incoming signal to hopefully less than 1% .

There's "max volume" attenuators on each of the 8 channels. There's four stereo sliders controlling the main level of the pairs of channels. There's a duck delay knob (controls how fast the envelope returns to zero) and each stereo pair has its own duck level knob, which controls how much current can go to each LED inside the Vactrol (LED/LDR pair).

There's a L out jack, a R out jack, a mono mixdown jack, and a stereo headphone-capable jack.

I'm proud of the headphone amp portion. It's a single DIP8 through-hole footprint into which the builder can install a bog-standard NE5532 op amp. These can put um... 25mA into a typical 32ohm headphone? Not a enough current to work well, there will be distortion and the volume will be low. But you can STACK OP AMPS as high as you want, four? five? SIX??? Probably wanna keep it at six or lower. But stack those babies and they'll happily drive 32 ohm headphones to Very Loud Volumes (beware the ears).

There's a gain/volume control for the final mixer amp, which really does set the gain so you can mix eight very hot signals without impossible-to-get-rid-of clipping.

Oh yeah, you can also mix the duck-signal into the final mix if you want. OH YEAH, there's a pair of send/return jacks for one of the channel pairs. They're post-sidechain, not sure that's the BEST choice... I love love LOVE me some monster reverb tails that are being sidechained by a kick drum. It's so cool.

Okay, now it's time to post this and go order five PCBs!!!

Either Way! A polarity-agnostic Eurorack header

    It's a new Eurorack header!! This will allow builders to use cheaper pin headers and plug their modules in either way without worrying about getting the polarity wrong and having a non-functional module. I always use these diodes as reverse-polarity protection, but there's no such thing with these extra pair of diodes. Exciting!

 

PRICE LIST!!!

 Hi, I should have done this a LONG time ago. Here's a price list of all my modules, which I hope to update every time I have a new module (or remember an old one) (or run out of them and decide not to get more haha)

Prices US$
First price is for complete tested module. Second is for kit. Third is for SMD-assembled PCB.

DoublePlusBass (full-featured kick drum, 11 knobs) $90 / $65 . $25
MantisLader (clean diode-ladder low-pass with some fun tweaks) $80 / $50 / $20
HungryRat (Proco Rat clone with CV-starve and treble/bass control) $90 / $70 / $25
NyquistNightmare (signal DESTROYER hard to describe) $90 / $60 / $25
909HAT (open, closed, accent, CV pitch, sample reverse) $90 / $75 / 25
909CRC (crash, ride, 808 cowbell, goodies) $85 / $70 / $25
DumpsterDelay (delay module with CV-controlled delay and DIRT in the feedback path) $80 / $55 / $25
PlusSnare (snare with integrated delay, CV-controlled wet/dry, with tails) $85 / $60 / $25

Shipping extra, send me an email at ozerik@gmail.com (or contact me anywhere you can find me) to get me to send you something!

Paypal Link make sure to tell me what you wanthttps://paypal.me/ZumbaJuanito?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US a

And thank you for your business!

909HAT

 

Tadaaaa!!! It's a 909 HAT!

This is the final retail version of the 909HAT module! I've got like 20 of them, so as fast as people can get on my case to send them out they'll sell.

Anyway, if you've gotten your hands on a kit (or printed up a PCB if that's a thing anyone ever does) make sure to get help building it by going to this Instructable howto link right here.

VCSlope hardware works!!

 

    This is the VCSlope module I obsessively designed in a week or so. It seems to work correctly, as far as I can tell... the two "Rate" knobs set the rate of the slope rise and fall, and clockwise means "slower" or, I guess, "more time going up or down the slope." So when it's oscillating fast, clockwise means lower, counter-clockwise means higher. This isn't what we're used to in SynthUniverse, but it's probably the way they're supposed to be.

    Installing several of these in one case and patching all over them could be a really interesting exercise is random/automatic sound generation. I'll let you know!!

909CRC

Heyyyy! You've found my post about the 909CRC, the crash/ride/COWBELL module!

For full documentation of this build, go check out the Instructable build guide.

Here's the user manual, also included in the Instructable page but maybe you want it here too...

The top jack labeled Pitch is for a control voltage that sets the pitch of the voice. This control conforms to the 1V/octave standard, so you can play tunes with your 909CRC.

The top potentiometer sets the pitch as well. If you turn the knob lower than 12 o'clock, the sample will play backwards. It's possible to scrub back and forth through the sample if you mess with this knob correctly.

The two LEDs show which sample is being selected, and playing.

The button below selects between the three samples, sample one is crash, sample two is ride, sample three is 808 cowbell. Hold this button for two seconds, and it becomes a way to trigger the module without an external trigger signal.

The jack labeled Accent allows you to control the volume of the voice with a control voltage.

The Level pot controls the volume of the voice.

The Trig jack is for the trigger. Send this a pulse of voltage, the module will trigger!

The Out jack is, well... obvious.

Stanced Sedona

 

    I know in my head that this is a crappy old minivan.

    I know that.

    But when I look at it, I don't see a 15-year-old mom-mobile with rust spots and 340,000 miles and mismatching door handles. It looks cool. It looks tough. I have driven this van all over the Colorado plateau. I've driven it to Kentucky more times that I can count. It's the most powerful car I've ever owned (245HP) and may be the fastest as well, both straight-line thanks to the variable valve timing and 24 valve V6, and maybe even on the twisties since tire technology has come so far (but I don't do twisties anymore because the Midwest is a grid and it's dangerous to drive fast through neighborhoods) (I used to fly through neighborhoods in Texas when I was young and foolish).

    We've bonded.

    So anyway, I just put snow tires on Nissan (rear wheel drive) alloy rims, and slapped them on my van. They're wider than stock, and have a wider offset. So the wheels are pretty flush with the fenders. I would love LOVE to put airbags in the suspension -- the front are basic struts, the back are just coil springs, so there's generic airbag kits out there but I can NOT justify the expense but DUDE, letting all the air out of the bags and driving around just slammed would make my heart so happy.